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Off the Path of: Mérida, Mexico!

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MANZANILLO:
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MAZATLAN:
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MERIDA:
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OAXACA:
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PLAYA DEL CARMEN:
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PUERTO VALLARTA:
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MAYAN RUINS:
* Chichén Itzá
* Coba Ruins
* Mayapan
* Tulum Ruins
* Uxmal Ruins
Medira, Mexico: Montonge {click to enlarge]

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Izamal ~ Near Mérida, Mexico:

Izamal is a sleepy town some 81km (50 miles) east of Mérida, an easy day trip by car.  You can visit the famous Franciscan convent of San Antonio de Padua and the ruins of four large pyramids that overlook the center of town.  One pyramid is partially reconstructed.  Life in Izamal is easygoing in the extreme, as evidenced by the victorias, the horse-drawn buggies that serve as taxis here.  Even if you come by car, you should make a point of touring the town in one of these.

Celestun National Wildlife Refuge ~ Flamingos & Other Waterfowl:

On the coast west of Mérida is a large wetlands area that has been declared a biopreserve.  It is a long, shallow estuary where freshwater mixes with Gulf saltwater, creating a habitat perfect for flamingos and many other species of waterfowl.  This estuary (ría in Spanish), unlike other estuaries that are fed by rivers or streams, receives fresh water through about 80 cenotes, most of which are underwater.  It is very shallow (.3-1.2m/1-4 ft. deep) and thickly grown with mangrove, with an open channel .5km ( 1/4 mile) wide and 48km (30 miles) long, sheltered from the open sea by a narrow strip of land.  Along this corridor, you can take a launch to see flamingos as they dredge the bottom of the shallows for a species of small crustacean and a particular insect that make up the bulk of their diet.

You can get here by car or bus; it's an easy 90-minute drive.  To drive, leave downtown Mérida on Calle 57. Shortly after Santiago Church, Calle 57 ends and there's a dogleg onto Calle 59-A.  This crosses Avenida Itzáes, and its name changes to Jacinto Canek; continue until you see signs for Celestún Highway 178. This will take you through Hunucmá, where the road joins Highway 281, which takes you to Celestún.  You'll know you have arrived when you get to the bridge.

In the last few years, the state agency CULTUR has come into Celestún and established order where once there was chaos. Immediately to your left after the bridge, you'll find modern facilities with a snack bar, clean bathrooms, and a ticket window.  Prices for tours are fixed.  A 75-minute tour costs about $45 and can accommodate up to six people.  You can join others or hire a boat by yourself.  On the tour you'll definitely see some flamingos; you'll also get to see some mangrove close up, and one of the many underwater springs.  Please do not urge the boatmen to get any closer to the flamingos than they are allowed to; if pestered too much, the birds will abandon the area for other, less fitting habitat.  The ride is quite pleasant -- the water is calm, and CULTUR has supplied the boatmen with wide, flat-bottom skiffs that have canopies for shade.

In addition to flamingos, you will probably see frigate birds, pelicans, spoonbills, egrets, sandpipers, and other waterfowl feeding on shallow sandbars at any time of year.  At least 15 duck species have been counted, and there are several species of birds of prey.  Of the 175 bird species that are here, some 99 are permanent residents.  Nonbreeding flamingos remain here year-round; the larger group of breeding flamingos takes off around April to nest on the upper Yucatán Peninsula east of Río Lagartos, returning to Celestún in October.

Dzibilchaltun ~ Near Mérida, Mexico:

This destination makes for a quick morning trip that will get you back to Mérida in time for a siesta, or it could be part of a longer trip to Progreso, Uaymitún, and Xcambó.  It's located 14km (9 miles) north of Mérida along the Progreso road and 4km (3 miles) east of the highway.  To get there, take Calle 60 all the way out of town and follow signs for Progreso and Highway 261.  Look for the sign for Dzibilchaltún, which also reads UNIVERSIDAD DEL MAYAB; it will point you right.  After a few miles you'll see a sign for the entrance to the ruins and the museum.  If you don't want to drive, take one of the colectivos that line up along Parque San Juan.

Dzibilchaltún was founded about 500 B.C., flourished around A.D. 750, and was in decline long before the coming of the conquistadors.  It may have been occupied for almost 100 years after their arrival.  Since the ruins were discovered in 1941, more than 8,000 buildings have been mapped.  The site covers an area of almost 16 sq. km (10 sq. miles) with a central core of almost 65 acres, but the area of prime interest is limited to the buildings surrounding two plazas next to the cenote, and another building, the Temple of the Seven Dolls, connected to these by a sacbé (causeway).  Dzibilchaltún means "place of the stone writing," and at least 25 stelae have been found, many of them reused in buildings constructed after the original ones were covered or destroyed.

Start at the Museo del Pueblo Maya, which is worth seeing. It's open Tuesday to Sunday from 8am to 4pm.  Admission is $6. The museum's collection includes artifacts from various sites in the Yucatán.  Explanations are printed in bilingual format and are fairly thorough.  Objects include a beautiful example of a plumed serpent from Chichén Itzá and a finely designed incense vessel from Palenque.  From this general view of the Maya civilization, the museum moves on to exhibit specific artifacts found at the site of Dzibilchaltún, including the rather curious dolls that have given one structure its name.  Then there's an exhibit on Maya culture in historical and present times, including a collection of huipiles, the woven blouses that Indian women wear.  From here a door leads out to the site.

The first thing you come to is the sacbé that connects the two areas of interest.  To the left is the Temple of the Seven Dolls.  The temple's doorways line up with the sacbé to catch the rising sun at the spring and autumnal equinoxes.  To the right are the buildings grouped around the Cenote Xlacah, the sacred well, and a complex of buildings around Structure 38, the Central Group of temples.  The Yucatán State Department of Ecology has added nature trails and published a booklet (in Spanish) of birds and plants seen along the mapped trail.

En Route To Uxmal, Mexico:

Two routes go to Uxmal, about 81km (50 miles) south of Mérida.  The most direct is Highway 261 via Uman and Muna.  On the way, you can stop to see Hacienda Yaxcopoil, which is 32km (20 miles) from Mérida.  From downtown, take Calle 65 or 69 to Avenida Itzáes and turn left; this feeds onto the highway.

If you have the time and want a more scenic route, try the meandering State Highway 18.  This is sometimes known as the Convent Route, but all tourism hype aside, it makes for a pleasant drive with several interesting stops.  You could make your trip to Uxmal into a loop by going one way and coming back the other with an overnight stay at Uxmal or in Ticul.  One way to do this would be to take the long route on Highway 18, arriving in Uxmal in time to see the sound-and-light show.  Stay overnight in Uxmal or Santa Elena and see the ruins early in the morning before returning to Mérida.  All the attractions on these routes have the same hours: Churches are open from 10am to 1pm and 4 to 6pm; ruins are open from 8am to 5pm.

Highway 261: Yaxcopoil & Muna -- Afer passing through Uman, you'll drive 16km (10 miles) to Yaxcopoil (yash-koh-poyl), a ruined 19th-century hacienda on the right side of the road.  I've found that it is often closed, but when it's open, you can take a half-hour tour of the place, including the manor, and the henequen factory.  Officially it's open from Monday to Saturday from 8am to 6pm, Sunday from 9am to 1pm.  Admission is $3.50.

After Yaxcopoil comes the busy little market town of Muna (64km/40 miles from Mérida) where you might run into a traffic slowdown.  The typical Yucatecan tricycle taxis are everywhere.  Muna offers little for sightseers but may interest those curious about contemporary Maya life.  Be sure to stay on Highway 261 as you leave; 16km (10 miles) beyond Muna is Uxmal.

Highway 18 (The Convent Route): Kanasin, Acanceh, Mayapan & Tikul - From downtown take Calle 63 east to Circuito Colonias and turn right; look for a traffic circle with a small fountain and turn left.  This feeds onto Highway 18 to Kanasín (kah-nah-seen) and then Acanceh (ah-kahn-keh).  In Kanasín, the highway divides into two roads and a sign will tell you that you can't go straight, instead, you go to the right, which will curve around and flow into the next parallel street.  Go past the market, church, and the main square on your left, stay to the right when you get to a fork.

Shortly after Kanasín the highway has been upgraded and now by passes a lot of villages.  After a few of these turnoffs you'll see a sign pointing left to Acanceh.  Across the street from and overlooking Acanceh's church is a restored pyramid.  On top of this pyramid under a makeshift roof are some recently discovered large stucco figures of Maya deities.  The caretaker, Mario Uicab, will guide you up to see the fascinating figures and give you a little explanation (in Spanish).  There are some other ruins a couple of blocks away called El Palacio de los Estucos.  In 1908, a stucco mural was found here in mint condition.  It was left exposed and has deteriorated somewhat.  Now it is sheltered, and you can still easily distinguish the painted figures in their original colors.  To leave Acanceh head back to the highway on the street that passes between the church and the plaza.  On this route you'll be passing through a lot of small villages without directional signs, so get used to poking your head out the window and saying "Buenos días, żdónde está el camino para . . . ?" which translates as "Good day, where is the road to . . . ?"  This is what I do, and I ask more than one person.  The streets in these villages are full of children, bicycles, and livestock, so drive carefully and, as always, keep an eye out for unmarked topes.

The next turnoff will be for Tecoh on the right side. Tecoh's parish church sits on a massive pre-Columbian raised platform -- the remains of a ceremonial complex that was sacrificed to build the church.  With its rough stone and simple twin towers that are crumbling around the edges, the church looks ancient.  Inside are three carved retablos, covered in gold leaf and unmistakably Indian in style.  In 1998 they were cleaned and refurbished.

Also in Tecoh are some caverns, shown by a local.  The bad news is that the owner doesn't have very good flashlight, and I found myself groping around in the dark.  You'll find them as you leave town heading back to the highway.  Then it's on to the ruins of Mayapán.

Progreso ~ Mexico:

For a beach escape, go to the port of Progreso, Mérida's weekend beach resort.  This is where Meridanos have their vacation houses and where they come in large numbers in July and August.  It is also the part-time home of some Americans and Canadians escaping northern winters.  Except for July and August, it is a quiet place where you can enjoy the Gulf waters without fuss.  Along the malecón, the wide oceanfront drive that extends the length of a sandy beach, you can pull over and enjoy a swim anywhere you like.  The water here isn't the blue of the Caribbean, but it is clean.  A long pier, extends several miles into the gulf to load and unload large ships.  Cruise ships dock here twice a week.  Along or near the malecón are several hotels and a number of restaurants where you can get good fresh seafood.

From Mérida, buses to Progreso leave from the bus station at Calle 62 no. 524, between calles 65 and 67, every 15 minutes, starting at 5am. The trip takes almost an hour.

If you have a car, you might want to drive down the coastal road east toward Telchac Puerto.  After about 20 minutes, at the right side of the road you'll see a large, solid-looking wooden observation tower for viewing flamingos.  A sign reads UAYMITUN.  The state agency CULTUR constructed the tower, operates it, and provides binoculars free of charge.  A few years ago, flamingos from Celestún migrated here and established a colony.  Your chances of spotting them are good, and you don't have to pay for a boat.

Twenty minutes farther down this road, there's a turnoff for the road to Dzemul.  On my last trip I didn't see any flamingos at Uaymitún but just after turning here I found a flock of 500 only 27m (90 ft.) from the highway.  After a few minutes, you'll see a sign for Xcambó that points to the right.  This Maya city is thought to have prospered as a production center for salt, a valuable commodity.  Archaeologists have reconstructed the small ceremonial center, which has several platforms and temples.  Admission is free.  After viewing these ruins, you can continue on the same road through the small towns of Dzemul and Baca.  At Baca, take Highway 176 back to Mérida.

 Mayapan Ruins ~ Mexico :

Founded, according to Maya lore, by the man-god Kukulkán (Quetzalcoatl in central Mexico) in about A.D. 1007, Mayapán ranked in importance with Chichén Itzá and Uxmal.  It covered at least 4 sq. km (2 1/2 sq. miles).  For more than two centuries it was the capital of a Maya confederation of city-states that included Chichén and Uxmal.  But before 1200, the rulers of Mayapán ended the confederation by attacking and conquering Chichén and forcing the rulers of Uxmal to live as vassals in Mayapán.  Eventually, a successful revolt by the other cities brought down Mayapán, which was abandoned during the mid-1400s.

In the last few years, archaeologists have been busy excavating and rebuilding the city, and work continues.  Several buildings bordering the principal plaza have been reconstructed, including one that is similar to El Castillo in Chichén Itzá.  The scientists have discovered murals and stucco figures that provide more grist for the mill of conjecture: atlantes, skeletal soldiers, macaws, entwined snakes, and a stucco jaguar. This place is definitely worth stopping to see.

From Mayapan to Ticul -- About 20km (12 miles) after Mayapán, you'll see the highway for Mama on your right.  This will put you on a narrow road that quickly enters the town.  For some reason I really like this village; some parts of it are quite pretty.  It's often called Mamita by the locals, using the affectionate diminutive suffix.  The main attraction is the church and former convent.  Inside are several fascinating retablos sculpted in a native form of baroque.  During the restoration of these buildings, colonial-age murals and designs were uncovered and restored.  Be sure to get a peek at them in the sacristy.  From Mama continue on for about 20km (12 miles) to Ticul, a large (for this area) market town with a couple of simple hotels.

Tical ~ Near Mérida, Mexico:

Best known for the cottage industry of huipil (native blouse) embroidery and for the manufacture of women's dress shoes, Ticul isn't the most exciting stop on the Puuc route, but it's a convenient place to wash up and spend the night.  It's also a center for large commercially produced pottery; most of the widely sold sienna-colored pottery painted with Maya designs comes from here.  If it's a cloudy, humid day, the potters may not be working (part of the process requires sun drying), but they still welcome visitors to purchase finished pieces.

Ticul is only 19km (12 miles) northeast of Uxmal, so thrifty tourists stay here instead of at the more expensive hotels at the ruins.  Get an interior room if you're looking for quiet, because Ticul has quite a lively plaza.  From Ticul, you can do one of two things: head straight for Uxmal via Santa Elena, or loop around the Puuc Route, the long way to Santa Elena.

From Ticul to Uxmal - Follow the main street (Calle 23) west through town.  Turn left on Calle 34. It's 16km (10 miles) to Santa Elena; and from there another 15km (9 1/4 miles) to Uxmal.  In Santa Elena, by the side of Highway 261, is a clean restaurant with good food.

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